This is a multi-fandom and sometimes travel blog (as work takes me to a lot of cool places), with a spattering of other things that amuse me or make me happy.
Also if you want to know anything, feel free to ask!
Carter: So what didn't they go for?
O'Neill: The name I suggested.
Carter: For the ship?
Carter: Yeah, sir, we can't call it the Enterprise.
O'Neill: Why not?!
Carter: The project codename is Prometheus. What's wrong with that?
O'Neill: It's a Greek tragedy. Who wants that?
A rainy day on the set of Quick Draw
There is a point where you will find yourself shooting in the rain. Well. they might be shooting inside but you’ll have lights in the rain. As we run cable in the rain and plug in lights, I always recall the following formula:
water + electricity = bad
It can create a short and yes, you could get zapped. But don’t worry, we have our ways!
Just as you have GFCIs (ground fault interrupters) in your bathroom we have GFCIs made for film.
400Amp GFCI mean to protect a whole cable run.
100Amp Shock Block GFCI to protect a 100Amp Bates run
20amp GFCI with edison (i.e. common household) connectors
(available at Amazon for $30)
The GFCI can basically sense if some of the hot power is not going properly back to the neutral. If electricity is escaping and finding a different ground, it will trip. So when the rain starts to conduct and makes the electricity go a different path (like your body for example), the GFCI will sense that and trip (turn off the electricity). It’s extremely sensitive. So whenever you’re working in the rain or near water or shooting a pool scene, a hot tub scene, a bathtub scene, etc., make sure all lights that could be effected by water are on a GFCI circuit. Either a 400amp or a 100amp or a 20amp GFCI. Shock block is the most popular manufacturer and any good rental house should be able to get you GFCI equipment or point you in the right direction.
Google “Shock Block” for more info.
For your main cable run, use cable with camlock connectors. Camlock is waterproof but you should still keep all connections out of puddles.
3. Rubber Mating
Keep your distro boxes off the wet ground by putting them on a half apple box and covering them with rubber matting.
4. Keep connectors dry
Well, at least try your best.
5. Common sense
Your goal is to keep any non-waterproof electrical equipment dry.
So that should keep you from getting shocked. But we are still dealing with having lights in the rain and keeping them dry. We can’t put a trash bag or put rubber matting on them. Not only will it potentially melt, it won’t allow the light to properly ventilate which will f it up. You can use black wrap but the rain hitting the foil is extremely noisy. For lights we use a thing called “cello screen.
Cello is made of aluminum wire screening with a plastic coating, making it waterproof and shapable.
The most damage we usually get from having lights in the rain is… cracked lenses! The issue is rain hitting the front glass of the light (aka the lens). The cold water on the super hot glass will crack it. So, when putting cello screen on lights, cut a really big piece so that it not only protects the electronics but ALSO keeps the front glass dry.
In the set-up on top of the page, we had an 18K, 2 * M18’s and 2 * 1200’s out in the pouring rain for 10 hours. It dumped over two inches in that time. The GFI never tripped, all the lights stayed on and not a single cracked lens.